I have the camera in manual mode, daylight white balance They can both be used as a lamp and a flash.īut the flash exposure is long and you can not freeze vibration as with a normal flash. I ordered a LED light with flexible arms and synced from the camera. If I add all three extension tubes they together have a length of 49 mm and I get 2.4:1 magnification. With a 28 mm extension tube I get 2:1 magnification, The lens is a Pentacon 50 mm f/1.8 and reverse mounted. Line up the camera focus-axis to be parallel with the axis of the macro slider. Now I have the camera mounted on the more stable holder and the object on the slider. I have changed my setup since my first test of the macro slider.
I have only tested the Picolay to do focus stacking with. Visit the above pages and judge yourself what's the best software for you. Irfanview: for focus stacking but very useful to handle image files.Here is a list of free image editing tools with links: Hugin:, command line operated, see tutorial.Here is a list of the focus stacking software mention above with links: It can do everything I want to do now in the beginning. You have then to do it in two or more steps.Īfter some search on internet I found a German software, Picolay. ImageJ and Hugin are free but they can not handle a DSLR raw format. Now in the beginning I look for a free software that I can get some experience from. Helicon Focus and Zerene stacker are good what I have read, they are not free but seems to have a 30 days free trail. ImageJ which I use in astrophotography is one, Hugin is another. There are many software that can do this more or less automatic. With focus stacking you normally have 20 photos or more and then the above method is unpractical. You set a layer for every photo and with mask get the areas with sharpness and then blend them together. If there are only a few photos you can do it with Photoshop or Gimp or other image editing tool.
HELICON PHOTO STACKING SOFTWARE HOW TO
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